SUP Trip: Komarnica River Canyon

August in Virpazar was brutally hot, so we escaped north, where the air is a little cooler. There were many active fires all around the country that time, especially on the coast, so we were bathing in smoke for a few days while we had to stay outside because of the nature of our jobs. After an early start and a two-and-a-half-hour drive, we reached the north. Luckily, the air was clean here; we know we will have an amazing day ahead of us. Quickly we pumped up our boards and set off.

The Komarnica River is one of the last truly wild places in Montenegro. Part of its canyon disappeared when the dam creating Piva Lake was built in 1975, flooding sections of the valley – that is where we will paddle. The canyon feels remote and raw, and the scenery is just stunning. The starting point is a bit difficult to access, which means carrying paddleboards down a steep path of loose gravel and rocks. And a small tip: don’t go barefoot like we did, thinking, "The path doesn’t look that bad from the road." It definitely is harsh for the feet. Luckily, we met some kind young road trippers from Germany who helped us carry the boards down to the riverbank. Thanks again, guys!

The moment we entered the canyon, everything changed – pure magic and flatwater conditions for paddleboarders. Steep limestone cliffs surrounded us, with water in shades of blue and green. I have never seen colour like this before. So inviting, we have to take a dip, and I can say it's the best dip of the whole summer. The canyon can be paddled for up to 11 kilometres, but as we went deeper, the wind started picking up. Soon it was pushing us forward so strongly that our boards glided across the water even without paddling. That was our sign not to go too far — because whatever pushes you in will make the way back much harder, and there is no phone signal in the canyon. We turned around after 6 km and found shelter in a big cave, where we ate our food and even saw a cool water snake climbing on its walls. I wish I knew the species! Moments like this are why we love paddleboarding so much.

Whenever we head out on adventures, we try to limit our waste as much as possible. That means preparing drinks and food in advance — usually homemade lemonade with honey and, this time, also cold pomegranate juice and plenty of water. Seeing plastic pollution in beautiful places really changes how you travel. Luckily, Montenegro has many natural springs where you can refill fresh water and drink tap water.

The sad thing is the Komarnica River is now under threat. There are plans to build another hydropower dam on the Komarnica River, which would flood the remaining untouched parts of the canyon still full of life and biodiversity. Building a dam severely disrupts river ecosystems, and many species get lost in habitat destruction. An inspiring group of local activists and scientists is fighting to stop it as part of the Blue Heart of Europe initiative. You can watch the short YouTube documentary about the incredible and inspiring work of the activists. Click here to watch the documentary.

What inspires me most about the Save Komarnica movement is how a small group of passionate people managed to bring together scientists, activists, and nature lovers from all over Europe to stand up for one river.

Because places like this are rare — and once they disappear, they’re gone forever.